Finally a Grotto that Delivered! (I was slightly intoxicated while composing this)

May 26

So today we awoke in Rome only to fall asleep in Sardenga. We got up in Pavonna, where Luca lives and he drove us to the airport and we boarded a RyanAir flight to Alghero. When we arrived 40 minutes later in Alghero we headed straight to Neptune’s Grotto.

Neptune’s Grotto is one of the most amazing things we saw here in Sardenga. We bought a map in the airport with a star rating on where to go, 2 stars being extremely worthwhile. Neptune’s Grotto was 2 stars and deserved every bit of both stars (and we didn’t even pay the 10euro’s each to go 400meters into the cave). Just the walk down and the portion you get of the cave for free were absolutely amazing, definitely like nothing we have seen on this trip. Neptune’s Grotto was kind of like the Grand Canyon meets Carlsbad Caverns, meets the Pacific Ocean.

After the Grotto, we headed for Stintino (molto bello, per Carlo). We stopped at La Saline just south of Stintno, a white pebble beach (gorgeous). We laid out from 3:30-5:30 at La Saline, after which we drove out to La Pelosa beach to determine whether or not to stay the night or to keep truckin’. After seeing La Pelosa Beach we decided to spend the night in Stintino.

We found a hotel in town for a good price. Once we found a place to stay we started exploring the town enjoying the harbor, the mini harbor, the local pasticerie, before heading back to the hotel to bundle up for dinner. It was relatively cool with a strong wind, definitely sweater and pants weather in the evening.

Our little rental car

We ate dinner at San Antonio’s seafood, and both enjoyed wonderful meals. Richard had Linguine con cozze and Sausage and I had Spaghetti nero con cozze e prawns with pizziola. It was delicious, then on the way home we stopped for gelato, after our stroll down the pier.

Off to bed after a full day…

Day of many travels

May 25th

Today we left the isle of Capri by ferry and headed to Napoli. The trip was incredibly easy, clear signs marked the way to the ticket terminal and 45 minutes later we arrived in Naples…where the fun began…

I had done a lot of research in preparation for our trip and knew that their were buses to Pompeii from the ferry terminal, but we had our luggage and no hotel, so we had to get to the train station to store our bags before heading out to Pompeii. So naturally I thought we could take a bus, and there was a tabacci stand across the street, I stayed with the bags and sent Richard to buy the tickets. He came back with two bus tickets and NO idea which bus to get on in which direction or where the central train station was located. Guess what happened? We got in a fight that ended with us taking a 20euro taxi ride to the station with the world pushiest cab driver who tried to get us to pay him 70euro to take us to Pompeii and back.

Once we arrived to the station things cleared up nicely. Signs clearly marked the way to the luggage drop, and after the bags were secure we were free to figure out how to get to Pompeii. We asked at the tourist office and a less than friendly Tabacci vendor, and finally made our way to the Circumvesusian (regional) train line, where we found the bus tickets we had purchased earlier would also function to get us to Pompeii via train. We decided we better get some lunch before heading to the ruins and stopped in a pizzeria for some quick pannini’s, where we learned that even ready made sandwiches take 45 minutes in Italy.

After we ate we took a 45 minute train ride to Pompeii Scavi (the ruins). This was the highlight of the day, and well worth all the trouble it took us to get here. I have been fascinated with Mt. Vesuvius and the Pompeian ruins since my 8th grade Latin class, where the entire curriculum of the class was derived from the history and culture of this lost city. So for me it was really amazing to finally get to see and experience it for myself, I was also surprised at the facts I was able to recall and share with Richard. It was exhausting, I had no concept of how large the city was, it was much larger than I had anticipated. The highlights for me were the Amphitheatre, the forum, the house of Cornelium (it was a rather intact structure with both frescoes and mosaics that remained intact). The entire experience was really beyond what I could have imagined!

This is for those of you who know about Richard's Monumental Tradition

We returned to Naples, which only took us 30 minutes this time, and struck out down the sketchy boulevards in search of some affordable shopping. We found it, between a tiny China townish area and the street vendors, we were able to find some good deals. In the meantime we had been trying to find some quick, inexpensive food, and based on our experience at lunch determined eating at the McDonald’s in the train station would be the wisest bet, so begrudgingly we ate a McDonald’s in Italy, but thouroghly enjoyed it and were surprised at its authenticity. We met our goal of fast and cheap, had our bags and tickets waiting on the platform by 1940 for our 2030 trip to Rome.

Once on board we chatted with some nice American girls (currently living in DC, small world). Unfortunately at the conclusion of their vacation they will be moving to NC…go figure. We sent Luca a text message once in route, so hopefully he will be at the train station to pick us up? We will see.

The day of the boat tour

May 24

Today started with another breakfast with amzing views of the sparkling Mediterranean sea. After breakfast we quickly checked out of the hotel and headed out front to flag down a bus. Once safely on the bus with all our baggage we quickly made it to the main port of Amalfi (much quicker than our usual 30 minute walk).

On the Boat

At 1000 we boarded a massive speed boat for a tour of the Amalfitana coast and the isle of Capri. Here is the description per the website:

Our private full-day boat tour departs from AMALFI, MAIORI and MINORI. Aboard our traditional gozzo motor-boat, which we custom-built three years ago, your captain will steer away from AMALFI to take in the nearby seaside towns of MAIORI and MINORI. Just beyond MAOIRI is the marine cave called PANDORA'S GROTTO, which we can enter with our boat to experience this beautiful natural wonder. Onwards you will visit the nearby MARMORATA FALLS and view the majestical RAVELLO, the famous village of music, which is seated high on a cliff face towering over AMALFI.

Encircling the cliff past AMALFI, your captain will cruise along to the pristine enclave of SANTA CROCE and its Lover's Arch and onwards to CONCA DEI MARINI where you can visit the GROTTA DELLO SMERALDO or the EMERALD GROTTO. Sailing west, your captain will point out the FURORE FJORD, a deep inlet where the International Diving Championships are held annually and then cruise along the twin-mountain town of PRAIANO.

Offering drinks to quench any thirst (which he did not), your captain will continue towards the gelati-hued village of POSITANO, before steering out to sea to visit the mythical islands of LI GALLI. The islands are legendary as it is said Ulysses had to tie himself to the mast of his ship in order to resist the singing of the sirens.

CAPRI is now within reach at PUNTA CAMPANELLA, where the AMALFI COAST officially ends and the SORRENTO COAST begins. Your motor boat excursion continues to CAPRI and your captain will circle the island, visit the famous BLUE GROTTO (we didn't go in it was WAY overpriced), the FARAGLIONI rock formation and the WHITE and GREEN GROTTOS. After circling CAPRI, your captain will dock the boat in the prestigious MARINA GRANDE of CAPRI Your captain with his local knowledge will take you for a swim in a picturesque location where it is possible to dive straight off the boat into the navy Mediterranean depths.

Planning a seaside vacation in May, we had anticipated only getting to enjoy the gorgeous views, and expected the water to be far too cold for us warm bloods to enjoy. However, my favorite portion of today’s boat excursion was our stop for a swim in a clear cove off the south side of Capri. Although the water was frigid at first touch, my body quickly numbed to the chill and I enjoyed the swim more than anyone. I guess Richard doesn’t have quite as much adipose (that’s FAT) to keep him warm because he was freezing the entire time.

Shortly after our swim we arrived in Marina Grande, Capri. Once there Richard’s pessimistic personality started to get the best of him, when my cell phone didn’t work and we weren’t sure how to get to Marina Piccolo on the opposite side of the island. But the fates were good to us with this adventure, at the end of the pier there was a tourist office, they phoned the hotel for us, and within 5 minutes we were on the hotel shuttle bound for the Weber Ambassador.

In the Grotto dell'Esmeralda

This hotel was/will be the nicest hotel we stay in our entire trip I’m sure. It is a 4 star, ocean front hotel in Capri. They greeted us with prosecco had a bellman escort us to our room, they supplied a free shuttle to the city center, and their staff was incredibly helpful and fully English speaking.

By this time it was 1430 and we ate breakfast at 0830, so I was at about 100 out of 10 on our hunger scale (the way Rich and I determine when to look for a restaurant). So we walked to a restaurant next door to the hotel and immediately ordered. This is the one instance that the Italian customs for meal time made me crazy! We finally started eating around 1515, at which point I felt so weak and exhausted I could have been eating rubber and not cared or even realized. By the time we had our second course I was slightly more aware I was eating and enjoyed our veal milanesse.

Too hungry to hold my head up

After lunch, we immediately headed for the beach, where we only stayed about an hour due to the impending sun poisoning that might occur. We headed to our room where I enjoyed a nice long bath (my first one since leaving home). Don’t worry, I’ve showered!

Rich on the way to the Beach...view from hotel.

We cleaned up, and headed into town to discover Capri. We discovered a plethora of ridiculously expensive designer stores, so we just walked around until we got hungry, then headed to the Isidora for dinner. They seated us on a tiny little balcony, barely big enough for a tiny table and two chairs, overlooking the pedestrian street below. Here we feasted on typical Caprese dishes including salad, ravioli, and pizza.

Dinner in our little cove.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped and bought some pastries, mild, and a bottle of wine, so we could continue the evening back at the hotel, where we had a romantic evening starting with milk and pastries and ending with a subpar bottle of Chianti (DOC), stargazing, and an interesting debate about bats.

The day of the Big MisAdventure!

May 23

So today started as another beautiful day on the Amalfi coast. We enjoyed a relaxing breakfast with panoramic views from our hotel’s breakfast area before commencing our journey.

Breakfast

We walked into Amalfi and immediately purchased a 24 hour bus pass, 6 euro per person for unlimited travel along the Amalfi coast. So we loaded the next bus to Ravello, a highlight of the Amalfi coast high up in the mountains with breathtaking views of the towns and sea below. There wasn’t a lot to do in Ravello, we mostly just walked around and enjoyed the view, and did a little shopping. The coast area has beautiful pottery made right here, hand painted, so I felt compelled to make a purchase (Richard was thrilled). So I bought a small serving dish and a matching wine service set, with lemons painted on them, since the coast is covered with them.

Ravello, IT

We bused back down and made plans for the remainder of our day. It was about noon when we returned to Amalfi, and we decided we had plenty of time to take a picnic lunch to the beach. So we went into town and purchased an array of meats, some cheese, fresh baked bread, a bottle of wine, some chips, a bottle of water, some strawberries and cherries, and two Bacci for dessert, all for only 16euro! What a deal! But then Richard had to lug it all up the hill to the hotel and then down the infamous 455steps.

Beach Picnic

So despite our sore muscles from yesterday’s trip to the beach, we decided to try again, because it was Saturday and all the beaches were extremely crowded. The journey down was pretty easy, but we were terribly hot and took a quick dip in the Med before eating. We enjoyed our picnic and spent the rest of the afternoon on the beach.

We SLOWLY made our way up the stairs, and got cleaned up for our evening adventure. We hopped on a bus for Positano around 1745 from just outside our hotel, which was incredibly convenient. The plan being to walk around the town a while, have dinner, and then return to the hotel… When vacationing in a foreign country plans often fall apart!

The bus that we were on was ultimately bound for Sorrento but made two stops in Positano. Unfortunately, we weren’t really paying full attention and had an obstructed view thanks to some obnoxious Germans, and next thing we knew, we were leaving Positano still on the bus! Rich wouldn’t let me ring the bell as soon as we realized our error, instead this is what happened… After some bickering and yelling, Richard decided the best thing to do was get off the bus in an hour at Sorrento, grab some food, and do it all over again. Fortunately an American couple across the aisle gave us their timetable, which enabled me to talk some sense into the man, the eternal pessimist. We departed the bus at the next stop (20 minutes in the wrong direction), due to Crystal forcing Richard off the bus, which happened to be in the quaint town of Middle-of-no-where, Italy (aka San Pietro). See the lovely satellite image below. We were in the main piazza of San Pietro which consisted of a knick-knack store, a closed restaurant, and probably some goats and lemons close by. We patiently waited another 20 minutes waiting for a bus back toward Positano while contemplating our other options (i.e. hitch-hiking in the back of a 30 year old, three wheeled Diahatsu truck that can’t break 40 mph). Luckily, the bus came and an hour later than originally scheduled, we made it to Positano, only to be greeted by about 600 steps descending into the town.

Which way do we go, Which way do we go?

Richard trying to determine when the next bus passes through MONW

Satelite Image of MONW, IT

After a quick jaunt through town (Crystal hauling with Richard and his bad attitude trailing behind), we found a nice little trattoria with a wonderful view. The night ended up being salvaged by a good dinner and the fact that we were able to make it to the other bus stop in Positano without having to scale the 600 steps. Otherwise, we might have been sleeping on the beach never to be seen again…

A quick stop on the steps to enjoy the view.

Richard, Still pouting about all the steps, and not trusting me that there was no way were going back up there!

He was happy once again, after he got some food!

455 STEPS...

May 22

Our trip to Amalfi started with Luca insisting on taking us all the way to our hotel in Amalfi, instead of dropping us off at the bus station in Salerno (the original plan). If you have read my previous posts, you are already familiar with his perilous driving, just add some high cliffs, tight turns, inability to see around corners, and two lanes with no shoulder, and you have a very frightening experience. However, well worth it once you arrive. Melissa if you read this, I thought about you on the ride, when I was getting nauseated.

Amalfi

Our hotel is about a 20 minute walk from the center of Amalfi. The walk is pleasant, with a nice breeze and beautiful views all along the way. Since we are a little ways out of town, our hotel is situated high on a cliff, right above the Mediterranean. We have a tiny room, that has a sea view, and was the cheapest hotel in Amalfi, with free wifi, AC, and breakfast. The hotel also has a private beach.

Me on our walk into town.

When we arrived to Amalfi, it was just before noon, and of course we were hungary. We immediately headed into town to find some lunch. We settled on a typical restaurant in the piazza del Dogi called Restorante Da Baracca. Richard had Spaghetti con vongole, and I don’t know what I had exactly but it involved fusilli, swordfish, capers, a little tomato and herbs, it was wonderful! We also enjoyed a bottle of wine for 8euro!!! That’s $10 in a restaurant for a bottle of wine, I love this place!

We had a light lunch, so we forwent our usual nap, and took a stroll through town. We bought some gifts for Leo and his soon to be little sis (hope it’s a girl), took a look at the main church, and had dessert at la pansa. Before coming to Amalfi, Guilia told us about a pastry shop immediately to the right of The Church in Amalfi with a fabulous lemon cake. So we took her advice and had the lemon cake, but we also had a chocolate hazelnut torte, they were both to die for.

The delicious desserts

After dessert we took a stroll down the pier, where we seized some photo opportunities and relaxed in the sun. It was at this point that we decided it was time to enjoy the private beach back at the hotel. Little did we know…

On the Peir

We headed back to the hotel, suited up, and headed to the beach. But there were so many stairs, it didn’t seem quite so bad on the way up. Once we arrived at the beach it was beautiful with silky smooth pebbles covering it, no sand, and only one other couple in occupancy. It felt like our own little piece of paradise, until the sun started setting behind the cliffs and it was time to ascend the dreaded steps. Our legs already felt like jello from all the walking, and climbing we’ve done lately, so the steps were especially daunting. We decided to make the best of it and count as we went along… 465 STEPS! Straight up the side of a cliff (it’s 2330 now and I am feeling the work already).

These are the steps, that white building at the top is our hotel.

We were exhausted after this, so we retired to our little luxury box for some R&R and blog time. After a couple of hours we felt recuperated and depleted, so we got dressed and headed back to the center of Amalfi for dinner.

Once we arrived we couldn’t decide where to eat, we tried and tried to find something outside the immediate (tourist filled) city center, but could only find bars. So finally we settled on a restaurant called Taverna degli Apostali, it was actually in the church, with a nice patio facing the main square. However, a couple of minutes in, after our wine had arrived we realized we weren’t at that restaurant at all. Another restaurant around the corner had one table on the same patio, this restaurant was called Il Chiostro (the cloister). So the running joke of the evening became the nuns vs the apostles. The dinner wasn’t quite as good as lunch, but we heartily enjoyed every minute. After we finished dinner, and paid the check, we visited il bagno. While there they had a first aid box on the wall, and I am in some desparate need of Neosporin (bacitracin) and when I went to the farmacia (pharmacy) they refused to sell me any antibiotic ointment, so I decided it was time to steal it. I tried but was unsuccessful…I have no idea what was in there, the only things I could identify were band-aids and cotton balls. I guess petty theft just isn’t my game.

After our failed theft attempt, we stopped for some gelato for the way home. Gelato in hand we headed up the dark, treacherous mountain little hope of coming out alive. Well, maybe I am a little bit dramatic, but remember the previously mentioned crazy traffic? Dealing with that traffic in the dark is a completely different ball game all together. Richard did nothing to soothe my paranoid ideations, by mentioning the possibility of being mugged as well as being left for roadkill. But after all my frantic pacing up the hills and around the curves we arrived safely to our hotel.

We then participated in our first international skype conversation with my mom. It was kind of crazy, I could see her in her kitchen half a world away. Technology really is an amazing thing. Until tomorrow, Buone Notte!

One of the many Lemoncello stores, the Amalfi coast is the birthplace of the beverage.

Let's get the orange clock...Arancia Orologio!

May 21

Last night at dinner, Richard asked Pierro what stores in Matera are good for buying clothes. This prompted an invitation to shop and enjoy the family discount at the store where his sisters, Antonella and Maria, work.

Richard and Nonna on the way to run some errands, how frickin' cute is she?

So this morning Luca took us to this shop, which was an extremely awkward experience because we felt obligated to purchase something, however, the store is a sports store and we were really just looking for fashionable Italian clothing. Of course, the language barrier made things that much more difficult because we were being asked what we were looking for and Richard tried to explain that we weren’t looking because of need but just “shopping.” The concept didn’t translate well and we ended up purchasing some clothing, a European style swimsuit for Richard (teeny weeny boxer briefs), which will never see the light of day in the US (pictures to come in a later blog), and an overpriced beach towel to take with us to Amalfi and Sardegna.

On the walk back, we stopped at a modern furnishings store to inquire about “the orange clock.” I had been eyeing this clock since our first walk through the center of Matera. Once we heard the price, we decided to take some more time to think about whether or not to purchase the clock.

Random Picture of the coolest church door ever, on the via del Corso, I developed an odd fascination.

We returned for lunch consisting of Orrechiete con sugo (pasta named “little ears” with meat and tomato sauce). The second course was a local sausage with mushrooms, salad, and some more chat about the orange clock. We enjoyed some fresh cherries and espresso then off to take our afternoon nap. Of course, before falling asleep I made it a point to bring up the clock once more. After a great nap, I bugged Richard some more about going to get the orange clock and we agreed that if the clock was made in Italy that we would buy it. After visiting with Nonna, we headed out to get the clock! Along the way, I purchased a shirt that I had also been eyeing and Luca visited a friend who works at a local shop. Finally, we made it to the store and found out that the clock was made in Milano, so the quest had ended with the acquisition of a great conversation piece. It’s just too bad that I don’t have a wall to go home and hang it on, it is just going to have to live in a box until August.

Nonna, Luca, and Richard at Dinner...empty plates, full bellies.

Dinner already? We ate dinner earlier tonight than previous nights, and I wasn’t the least bit hungry when Nonna began setting the table, but I rallied and ate like a native. We had some leftover sausage from lunch, some fresh mozzarella, green beans, and a small hamburger-like patti (kind of an individual serving of meatloaf minus the tomato sauce), again followed by cherries and apricots.

Crystal eating gelato in her glasses, due to the aforementioned eye ailment.

We ended our visit to Matera with one last trip down the Via del Corso for Gelato and to say goodbye to Pierro, but this time there was no orange clock in the window!

To flush or Not to flush?

May 20

Before I start to tell you about our day, let me explain my latest conundrum, since arriving in Matera. To flush or not to flush? In Rome we found it the custom to not flush the toilet after every use, but we had our own private bathroom, so we could do as we pleased. However, now we are all sharing a bathroom…and we still don’t know what to do?

Me, Nonna, and Richard after she received the pearls from Maria.

Today we spent the morning walking all around the Sassi, admiring the tiny cobblestone streets, knowing that millions of others have walked these streets over the years. It was a beautiful little town, however I would have enjoyed it much more, had it not been so hot. I felt like I was living a different life for a few hours.

Sculpture of the Sassi, in the Sassi

The goal of today was to purchase a piastra… Translation=Straight Iron. Why would I need to buy a straight iron, WELL mine exploded yet again! How difficult is it to find a freaking converter that works for a straight iron?!?!!? The first time I came to Europe I simply used an adaptor and had no problems, but I thought I just got lucky. So now I am 2 for 3 on blowing up converters/straight irons when coming to Europe. Oh well, now I have a European straight iron, and a hair dryer…I should be set now!

I got my piastra...notice the curls

Back for lunch! Linguine con Cozze (mussels…see previous blog), breaded chicken with lemon, pepperoni (plural for peppers, not the pizza topping), and foccacia, followed by oranges, bananas, espresso, and nap time. I love this culture, large lunch followed by a nap, how great!

This is Richard posing Adam and Eve style with a Fig leaf...There are fig trees everywhere!

After naptime, we again chatted with Nonna, until her neighbors arrived to meet us. After some small talk, and observation of their daughter’s linguistic talents, and chocolate, we left to meet Pierro and Ucho for pizza. So we didn’t meet them until 2100, at which time we started our tour of the Sassi by night. One hour and fifteen minutes after walking and talking comparative cultures we arrived at the pizzeria, La Talpa.

At the bottom of the Sassi, behind us are the caves (used for Jesus' tomb in the movie)

2215 dinner commenced with a feast of antipasto including ricotta, mozzarella, romano, eggplant lasagna, fried bread in tomatoe sauce, some type of creamed beans (similar to butter beans) with chicory, a bruschetta type salad, prosciutto, and lord knows what else; all served family style. After this feast, about 2300, it was time for pizza…WHAT?!?! More food, at this time of night? But, out came four pizzas, and we ate…

Richard with a giant plate of proscuitto at our family style dinner.

Unfortunately our evening became strained when I developed an eye ailment. I spent about 15 minutes in the restroom attempting to set things straight, and was wildly unsuccessful. By the time I was finished I resembled two face, no make-up on the left side, full make-up on the right. This little scene however did not stop the Lucano from coming out. Lucano is the region of Italy Matera is located in, and they have a whiskey with their namesake. Somehow by the end of the evening Richard was not only peer pressured into drinking a rather large beer but also sipping a double shot of whiskey.

Overall, it was a very wonderful evening. They all enjoyed sharing their culture and their cuisine, and were very attentive to our needs.

The City of the Sassi

May 19

We awoke this morning with the anticipation of a 5 hour car ride with a crazy Italian driver, and were not at all disappointed with the reality. We left Rome (Pavona) at 0900 this morning to visit Richard’s nonna (grandmother) in Matera. It is usually a 4.5 hour drive, it took us 5.5 once you add delays for traffic, construction, and the occasional cozze (means mussel, but we learned this week it is also a nasty slang for people who drive too slow). I had the backseat to myself so I laid down the majority of the journey, because when I was sitting up I was flying from one side of the backseat to the other. The drive was a lot less scary when I laid down and closed my eyes.

We arrived at Nonna’s at 1430, where lunch was waiting. In Italy it is common to have a very large lunch, similar to what we serve for dinner parties (pasta, meat/veggie, dolce, fruit, caffe). They compensate by having a small breakfast and a small dinner. Nonna prepared Lasagna, followed by braschioli and salad, then lemoncello soaked strawberries, biscotti, and espresso. After this event, I felt like I just had to lay down, which translated into nap time for me, while Richard played a video game. Once we emerged, we started chatting with nonna, surprisingly easy for not speaking the same language. As soon as Richard would say a few words, she would take off and run with it. The next thing I knew she brought out a bunch of pictures, mostly pictures of Rich, Stephen, and Sara Maria had sent over the years, but also old pictures of her family. It was wonderful, I saw a couple of pictures of Richard as a baby, the first time I have ever seen one….another story for another time.

Finally, it was time to see Matera. We went to walk around via del Corso (? I think), this is an area where everyone goes and walks around in the evening, it is filled with shops, gelateria’s, churches, bars, etc… On the way we passed the church where Richard’s grandfather preached…it is now a bar. Then on the other side of the street was Luca and Maria’s elementary school, we took a trip down memory lane I guess. Then I got my first introduction to the Sassi. It is a very old portion of the town that was partially carved out of the stone cliffs, it is straight out of a different century. Have you seen the passion of the Christ? Well the streets of the Sassi were used for the shooting of this film.

About 2030 we returned to nonna’s to eat again, this time much smaller we had some broccoflower salad (chilled with oil and vinegar), foccacia, greens, scamorzza, and wine, followed by nespolle (an amazing fruit somewhere between a peach, an apricot, and a plum) and pears, and more biscotti.

After dinner we walked back to the main street, where we met Pierro and Ucho. Pierro lived next door to Nonna when Rich was a kid, so they always played together when they came to visit. We walked about town admiring various views of the Sassi by night; landing in a Gelateria…this was the best one so far! We had giant bowls of gelato with tiny cones sticking out the top. What a wonderful way to end the day.